Like a sore thumb

This week is holidays here, so I have three days off of "work," so to speak. Since on Monday, the first day of the Eid Al-Adha, all the shops were closed, and since then only a small number of them have been open, I've spent most of the last few days alternately reading, studying Arabic, walking the city, and taking advantage of the time for internet. Today I set out to explore the city in its quiet days by taking a bus from my dorm. I've found that a large portion of Syrian women, especially ones my age, dress in modern western clothes, just more conservatively. So I put on my most normal clothes, black slacks, white buttonup shirt, and a black jacket, hoping to blend a bit; not taken for a local, but at least a resident alien. I don't really know if there is much logic to the bus system, and if there is, it's lost to me with my minimal Arabic. So I just hopped on the first bus that arrived, paid the 10 cent fee, and took the seat that was offered by a young man who got up for me. I spent the next twenty minutes looking out the window, observing people, neighborhoods, and mosques. For the record, each mosque is very unique, especially the minarets.

When the bus I was on cirled the outskirts of town on the far side of the city and returned to my stop, I got off, and got another bus. That one may have eventually taken me into the city center, but I knew the green one would. Well, I thought it would. After another twenty minutes or so of observing out the bus window, I glanced a Christian cemetary, almost literally in the shadow of a mosque. A few minutes later, as we passed through some of the oldest parts of town (this half of the city is a world heratige site), there was a Muslim cemetary along the side of the road. Simple headstones flowing with Arabic script, disappeared over the hill, and the bus moved on. I almost got off, wanting a picture of the cemetary, but I was in an area of town I didn't know and I realized I hadn't seen a woman in modern dress or with her hair/face uncovered in quite a while. I knew the bus was heading near the city center, a more common tourist site where I would be less out of place, so I stayed on, content with the mental photo. We passed a second graveyard, and this time the bus stopped and everyone got off, end of the line. I got out, and realized I wasn't really sure where I was at. I knew I was in the old city, behind the famous Citadel and souqs, but I didn't know which direction they lay. I took a guess.

For the record, anytime I take a guess in a city, even when I think I'm following a map, I'm almost always wrong. Ask joey. This time was no exception. And on top of it, I stuck out like a sore thumb, the only woman in sight without her hair covered; most women were wearing more traditional long dresses and anklelength coats, generally black, with black head scarves. I had my scarf with me, but bright green would probably have drawn more attention in this neighboorhood than my dark hair. In most areas, women tend to make up for the conservative dress code with bright colors, sparkly items, and flashy designs. This wasn't one of those areas. While never rude or threatening, I was getting far more attention than I wanted. I kept saying I'd take the next taxi that came by, but they'd come by, honk, and slow down and I'd shake my head before I realized it, intrigued by my surroundings.

Along the streets, young boys and old men were selling fat tailed sheep, and trucks were going by with sheep skins and live animals in every direction. Eid Al-Adha is a celebration of Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son and his last minute repreave of slaughtering a lamb instead. Traditionally, any family who is able to afford it slaughters a lamb and shares the food with friends, family, and those in need. When I realized I was heading deeper into the old city, rather than out of it, I turned around, and not long after was able to see the Citadel above the buildings. Heading in that direction, I came to a main turn about (the circular intersections are common here) and there were children everywhere. It was like a minature carnival with a tiny ferris wheel and many versions of swings piled high with minature people. I smiled as I walked by; even more than people in general, wherever you go, kids are kids.

I finally found an area I recognized, found my favorite street side "sandwhich" shop and had a late lunch of a chicken & veggie wrap (now that I think of it, these are somewhat similar to a taco bell "grilled stuffed burrito"). I kept walking, figuring I'd find the bus route, not wanting to spend the money on a taxi, though its a difference of twenty cents vs a dollar-ish. However, by the time I found my way to a bus stop, I was back to the university. Don't get me wrong, the city isn't that small, I probably walked about three miles, wandering in the direction of my dorm. Good exercise after being stationary for three days. :) And probably in part due to the holidays, but also to the part of my trip spent in the old city, I didn't see a single woman with her hair uncovered until I returned to the university. Come to think of it, not even then. So much for blending in today....